Sunday, 13 January 2013

Vogue 8804 - J'aime Chanel

So here it is, my completed Chanel Style Jacket!  And I'm not gonna lie, I love it and I'm super proud of it!
 
Oh and no Diana today, just me actually wearing something I've made.

Technically the Jacket is Vogue 8804 by Claire Shaeffer, but I made so many alterations and cut soo many corners that I'm not suite sure that I can describe it as the actual pattern anymore.  This is a couture pattern and is written well and clearly described, however I'm an instant gratification sewer and was having none of the 94 steps to make up this jacket, so I took it upon myself to kind of make it up as I went along.
 And it really worked for me.  I also found that it was really big in the fit, so took out the narrow side panels and under-arm panels which made for a better fit (this may be down to the fact I always cut patterns larger than I am, with the thinking it's easier to take it in than let it out).  Minus these pieces I got to work on construction which was good with the shaped seams rather than darts (there are darts in the lining though).  I had to take about an 1 1/2" off the shoulder as it stood out on me, looking like I had some proper 80's shoulder pads going on!  I'm regretting choosing basic lining fabric to line it as it's really thin and frays/rips easily but I took care and worked with it.
 
Being a couture pattern there are the couture steps involved, such as quilting the outer fabric and lining together which I began to do.  I immediately stopped as this ruined the look of my gorgeous mohair from work.  The quilted lines looked too harsh against the softness of the mohair and I felt it wasn't right.  I also omitted the sleeve button fastening choosing instead to have the vent permanently open.  I kept the braiding and buttons on the front and love the chain effect on the trim I chose.  The last step I missed was to put chain on the inside (as real Chanel jackets have to keep their shape) as the front was already becoming a little bulky with the trim and weight of the mohair.

Having worn it this morning, I'm really happy with the fit and look of this jacket and know it will be an investment piece that I'll keep forever.  I say investment as my fabric was much more expensive than I would usually buy but I couldn't resit it, falling in love with it the day it arrived in the shop.  It's ex Max Mara and you can really tell the difference between the designer and non-designer fabrics we get in the shop.  There's just something way more luxurious about them and have subtler details that set them apart (such as the mixed colours in the mohair on this one, the camera doesn't pick them out as well as good lighting does).

I feel that I've now completed a proper sewing task with this jacket.  Something I wouldn't buy for myself in a shop due to the cost of such an item.  And although I spent more on this than I would on other projects, you can really see the difference in the final garment.  Also the fact I had the week to work on it in stages meant it wasn't rushed as is sometimes normal when I get an idea in my head.  In all honesty though, I'm not likely to venture into such an involved project again any time soon, but I'm definitely going to start slowing down (ha) and taking time on projects to make them as perfect as can be.

4 comments:

  1. This is extraordinary, Hazel. Beautiful work. I just ordered the pattern today based on your blog post. Thanks for the thorough review. You should really be proud of this garment.

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    1. Thank you Shelley! I've just made it up again this week in an bright orange with navy lining and buttons and again love it! I'll be posting about it this week hopefully. Be sure to let me know how you get on with yours! :)

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  2. So you bought a couture pattern, cut it in a larger size than you are, didn't make a muslin, omitted the couture workmanship - and then complain about the fitting of the very same pattern...

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    1. Hi Anonymous, thanks for your comment! I hope you got a little satisfaction out of it, I sure am replying to it. One, I'm not sure where I complained about the fit? Could you please highlight that for me? As for it being a larger size, I just cut what I normally would in a Vogue pattern, as I'm sure most regular Vogue pattern users would do. Two, if you could kindly link me to some of your work, which I'm sure is nothing less than perfect. Maybe I could even learn something from it?

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